So you’ve found your way to the wonderful world of garment making; now let’s make sure those pieces last as long as possible! Properly finishing your seams makes a world of difference in how many wears and launderings a garment can take before mending, and there are so many options to choose from. If you don’t know where to start or want to try a new technique out to build your skills, we’ll cover some common finishing options and their uses.
Serged Seams
While serged seams do require a specialized machine, it is a very speedy seam finish that can be used on a wide variety of fabrics. Combined with a top-stitch to hold it in place, it can make for very clean finishes on the front and back.
Great for: A quick finish; finishing raw edges for prewashing; fabrics that tend to unravel badly
Fabric Types: With the right settings, you can use a serger on most wovens. Your manual should have a guide on settings for the differential feed to use for lightweight, midweight, and heavyweight fabrics
Tips: Curves on a serger can be a bit tricky; go slow and readjust the fabric under the presser foot as needed. If you don't like the feel of a serged seam flapping around, you can press it to one side and topstitch it into place to hold it flat against the wrong side of your garment.
Zigzag/Standard Machine Overlock
An alternative if you don't have a serger at home is using a tight zigzag stitch or mock "overlock" stitch along the raw edge of your fabrics. Not all machines have an overlock stitch, but you can refer to your manual to check. (Above: left is zigzag; right is overlock stitch)
Great for: Beginners; finishing raw edges for prewashing; works with any seam allowance
Fabric Types: Works best with midweight to heavyweight wovens with a tighter weave. Lighter weight or loose weaves may be more prone to fraying even with this finish, or they may be hard to manage through the machine.
Tips: Finishing the long edges of your pieces before you sew them can make it easier to manage the fabric as you sew the seams. This is also helpful to prevent fraying as you are pinning and sewing.
French Seams
Oooh so fancy! These require a little extra work, but leave you with a super clean finish. If your pattern doesn't use a 5/8" seam, you'll need to alter your seams to that to make it work, but if you do, you'll have fully encased seams that are strong and beautiful!
Great for: Sheer and lightweight fabrics; unlined garments that will have visible interiors; if you don't tolerate seams touching you, these have a smoother feel
Fabric Types: Avoid heavyweights, as this finish can become quite bulky; mid-lightweight fabrics work best with this
How To: You will sew your seam twice, ending up with a total seam allowance of 5/8". First, sew the piece together WRONG SIDES TOGETHER using 1/4" seam allowance. Then, trim the seam allowance to remove about 1/16" and any fraying. Then, flip the pieces so they are RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and press the seam so that it lays flat and even. Stitch the seam again at 3/8" and press again.
Flat-felled Seams
This is a very strong and durable seam finish that is commonly seen on jeans. It usually uses a 5/8" seam allowance, but it can be done on 3/8" seams if you take your time.
Great for: Heavier weight fabrics to reduce some bulk; long seams that lay flat
Fabric Types: This finish is easiest to achieve on fabrics that hold a press well and aren't likely to shift around as you sew
How To: Sew the seam as recommended, then trim one side down to 1/4". Fold the longer side of the seam allowance over the side you trimmed and press. Fold both over to the side, encasing the raw edge and press again. Top stitch in place. (Glue basting makes topstitching much easier!)
Bias Bound Seams
An ultra-professional finish that is a great option for unlined garments where you may see the seams, like a blazer or cloak. This means it is a great opportunity to add some flair to your piece, with a fun contrasting or matchy-matchy bias tape that suits your taste perfectly.
Great for: Blazers or garments where you may see the seam allowance when worn.
Fabric Types: Easiest to do on fabrics with structure.
How To: You will use double-fold bias tape to encase the raw edge. You can purchase pre-made or make your own. The bias tape can be applied to your fabric before you piece the seam or to each side of the seam after the seam has been sewn and pressed open.
You will then fold the tape around the raw edge and stitch again to secure. You may need to hand-finish bias binding depending on where it is used and the look you prefer.
Top-Stitched Seams
Similar to flat-felled seams, top-stitched seams involve pressing the raw edges under towards the sewn seam and then top-stitching them into place.
Great for: Very flat seams that reduce bulk
Fabric Types: Wovens that hold a press well
How To: Works best on 5/8" seams, but if you take your time, it can be done on 3/8" seams. Press the sewn seam open. Fold the raw edge of one side under itself and press in place, then topstitch down (glue basting helps here!). Repeat on the other side of the seam.
Explore and Practice
Making small swatches of these different techniques is a great way to get a feel for what you like and to practice before you are actively working on your final project. Many indie patterns include suggestions on finishing types to use, while the "Big 4" patterns do not.
After you’ve tried out different finishes, you’ll have a feel for your preferences on how you want your garments finished. You’ll also join the club of being judgy of Ready-to-Wear garments and the (generally) poorly done seams, and know that you know the secrets of making garments that last!
